406. Resting before Siena; Resting in Siena

Resting takes many forms. The views walking from Monterregione to Siena are glorious. Pleasant hillsides. Farmers tilling their ground.

Nearly two-thirds to Siena, a kind man has made a “Welcome Center.” After hours of walking, one can have fresh fruit, croissants, eggs, juices, coffee, and more. Although it is a donativo, everybody that I see stopping to sit and share in his bounty makes sure to donate. To top it off, two friends from earlier in the trip arrived. What a nice refreshment to body and spirit.

On reaching Siena, I find my BnB. For the first time, I have my own small kitchenette. Unsurprisingly, I yearn for some “comfort food.” I fix my own oatmeal; I fix my own egg omelet; I have as much fresh, cold milk that I want to drink in the morning!

Upon my return to Siena with Mary, I made more oatmeal

Siena is restful in other ways. I fondly remember when I led college students to Italy in 1997. I remember walking with students and several other faculty friends down a lane and then under an arch Suddenly, the Piazza del Campo was in front of me. Absolutely a stunning site. Siena is restful in such remembered associations.

Siena is restful in that it is such a walkable old town. There are so many ways to photograph the city and its people. As a lover of morning coffee, the early morning coffee routines are a must. As a person who loves history, the fellow in Renaissance period dress outside the Duomo is too appealing to pass.

The buildings surrounding the Piazza are fascinating. While the Allegory of Good Government and Bad Government is closed for refurnishing (shucks!), the Palazzo Publico, the Gothic town hall, and the Torre del Mangia are beautiful.

There are two fascinating museums. The Complesso Museale Santa Maria della Scala is housed in an ancient hospice. Because Siena was both a large city and an important stop on the Via Francigena, the hospice was probably one of the largest during early and medieval times. It later became an orphanage and then a hospital. Once again, the large murals are fascinating from a historical point of view.

Two murals depicting hospital scenes.
A mural displaying giving out bread, a pilgrim in the background.

The Pinacoteca Nazionale is a small museum specializing primarily in religious paintings. I had a field day here. At some point in time, I decided to look at three types of artistic presentations: in images of the Madonna, how old does Jesus appear to be? in artwork which includes Joseph, what is the expression on Joseph’s face? and when the crucifixion is painted, is Jesus’ head hanging to the right or the left? Strange, but interesting variations!

Speaking of religious themes, I am completely bowled over by the Duomo. Built between 1215-1263, both the exterior and the interior have white and greenish-black marble in alternating stripes. Striking!

I spend hours wandering through the interior.

Besides the large architectural features, interior sculptures are amazing. Of course, with artists such as Donatello, Pisano, Lorenzo Ghiberti, and Bernini, I would expect nothing else! Among other Cathedral features, the marble floor inlaid with figures makes me careful where I walk! Although added later, these include sibyls, the prophetesses of ancient Greece, figures and scenes from the Hebrew Scriptures, and, of course, a New Testament episode, The Slaughter of the Innocents. The pulpit has detailed marble carvings of Jesus’ life. Finally, there is the Piccolomini Library which includes illuminated choir books and frescos of Siena’s favorite son, cardinal Enea Silvio Piccolomini, who eventually became Pope Pius II. 

Siena had its problems though which affected the Duomo. Every visitor can see that Siena’s ambitions outstripped their ability. During the early 1300’s, Siena sought to enlarge and double the Cathedral’s size, making it larger than its’ rival Florence. Workers began building the exterior walls and a floor. Unfortunately, Siena was visited by the plague in 1348, and the exterior wall was found to be unsound. So much for that ambition!

Rest comes in many forms. A rest stop before Siena. A days rest in Siena with the opportunity to see so many wonderful sites, so many artistic works, and a beautiful Cathedral. Just what I needed!

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