I look forward to meeting other hikers. There is a kinship; there is a slowness that allows nice conversations.

The variety of “temporary” friendships is wonderful. On a picnic bench outside of Buonconvento, I meet Lucco. As a retired Italian teacher from northern Italy who knows and speaks several languages, he taught German to Italian school kids. I sometimes crave speaking with somebody who speaks English. I know that I’m a “free-loader”, but I don’t have to struggle.

At breakfast in San Quirico, I meet Fred and Elliot. Fred lives in Toronto; Elliot, his daughter, lives in Vancouver. Planning several months ahead, they are arranging to walk together for five days. They are extremely excited to walk together on this rare father-daughter excursion. With two sons, I envy a father who is able to jointly plan such a walk!

In Bolsena, I meet the two fellows that I end up “palling” with for the next several days, Jar (for Jarleth) and Ivan (for Ivanildo). Wonderful fellows! Jar is from Ireland; Ivan is from Brazil. During our first conversation, I mention that I had fallen recently. Very sympathetic, Jar asks how I’m doing. He suggests some light stretching exercises to keep the knee limber. With a nice smile and kind face, Ivanildo is quiet at first. Only later do I learn more about him.

Like me, they are early morning walkers. They are out of bed and on the trail by 8AM. Like experienced hikers, they want to finish not long after 1PM. Avoid the Italian sun! To get him walking though, Jar usually has not one, but two expressos! Before we really tried to walk together, we would encounter each other unexpectedly. Staying in the Viterbo Capuchin’s monastery, I grab a pizza at the nearest restaurant. While sitting at a front table, who walks past the restaurant? Jar and Ivanildo. Where are they staying? At the same Capuchin monastery! Since the other three hostels were full that night, they fortunately found space at the monastery. That evening meal was memorable. True to being an Irishman, Jar had four beers and seemed like he could handle four more! Ivanildo, more restrained with the beers, talked about his family, about meeting his wonderful wife in a few days!

Often when walking, I’m careful about what I ask. If the person wishes to disclose elements about their past, then our conversation may be more personal conversation. If the person wishes to speak mainly about the present, the difficulty of the walk, the beauty of sites, hoped-for foods, then our conversation centers around these and other similar topics. With Jar and Ivan, I gradually learn more about them, their past. Later, walking together, I learn more.

Of course, I learn how Jar loves to address folks. Since I was born in downstate Illinois, I am called “Illinois” by Jar. “Heh Illinois, hold up.” “Catch you at the next watering hole Illinois.” Although growing up in a small village in western Ireland, he has global experiences. Working from the USA to China. He recognizes that he was fortunte, because when he was young he trained for four years as an apprentice carpenter. Since he could turn down work to travel, I’m sure that he is being more than modest when he says “I became a quite decent carpenter by the time I finished.” He especially loves restoring old buildings and “working with old, old wood.”

I learn about his family. Not long ago, his son helped him on a kitchen project. When his son began to suggest “Dad, if we do this cabinet first and then that one, it will go quicker,” Nav was struck by his son’s natural ability. Hopes arose for his son picking up some of his own trade skills! However, as of now that isn’t to be. His son has promised a friend to travel together so off he went. “He kept his word, but I could have used him longer and would have loved to see him develop those natural skills.” Jar mentions his ex-wife only a few times. He commends her on her phenomenal memory, but not so much on her being a “word-keeper.” Frustratingly, he would repeat her words “On October 16, sixteen years ago you said this…” Jar recalled “By gosh, can’t I change my mind?” The answer was no.

Both Ivanildo and I love his trail expressions. Everything is “Doable.” “This hill is tough, but it is doable.” “Boy, this is a hot, hot day, but it is doable.” Or over and over again, “It can’t be more beautiful than this!” He’s also a wise man. After working in a hospice facility, he realizes that in talking to the patients many of them didn’t want sympathy. “Instead, they wanted the chance to laugh again.”

Ivanildo is a quiet, strong type. An engineer, he has a wife, a young daughter, and younger son. This long trip from Brazil is the first time that he has been away from his family. Like so many others, he has a special reason to walk the Via Francigena. When covid hit Brazil, many people died. His mother was one of covid’s victims. He is almost in tears after learning that Jareth was born on Oct 13th, the same day as his mother’s birthday.

Walking in solitude; walking with others. Both are important when walking the Via Francigena. In meeting others, as the old saying goes “don’t judge a book by it’s cover”, I’m always struck by how there is always so much more to a person than first impressions convey. I’m always struck by how much can fill a person’s life and what that person does with his or her life!