As I walk this Via Francigena, I realize that a surrounding and supporting public religious dimension is missing. In the classic Camino, pilgrims can see church naves with brochures or prayers to inspire them. Pilgrims can attend an evening service where individuals might be asked to read a Scripture passage in any number of different languages. Pilgrims might be able to talk to a Sister stamping a credential. The Camino differs from the Via Francigena. While there is a surrounding public religious atmosphere, I generally don’t feel that supporting religious dimension. But, this feeling is about to change.

Jar, Ivanildo, and I are about to complete the stage to Campagna de Roma. Another hot day; another climb up a long set of steps to the city. We are both looking forward to finishing the day, especially Ivanildo who hopes that his wife has completed he 24-hour flight and train ride from Brazil.

Since Jar needs to find a place to stay, he splits from Ivanildo and me. As we proceed down the one lane that leads to the main section of town, a woman shouts down to us. “Pellegrino! Pelllegrino! Fermare (stop)”

We look around; we look behind; we look up. An elderly woman is holding onto a second floor balcony railing twenty feet from us. Speaking much more softly now, she appears very serious as she speaks. I haven’t a clue to what she is saying; however, when she uses the word “Dio” and joins her hands in a gesture of prayer, I know that she is saying something important. I also see that Ivanildo has turned completely silent and attentive. While both of us pay attention, Ivanildo understands. Quietly he replies “Grazie, grazie.” As she waves and moves back into her house, we walk toward the main section.

“What did she say?” Ivanildo doesn’t reply at first. “What did she say?” I repeat. Ivanildo pauses, “She was blessing us.” “Pellegrinos, God will always be with you.”

Ivanildo begins to tear up. He has made this pilgrimage in honor of his mother who died of Covid. Ivanildo continues “Somehow, something about this trip has been incomplete. I haven’t received a blessing. I’ve been waiting for a blessing since starting over a week ago.” After pausing, “I’ve received a blessing today from this older woman. Today, she was my priest.”

The Spirit moves when and where the Spirit chooses.