Walking the Via Francigena is different from other excursions in many ways. One of the differences is that I meet a number of home owners, “ostello” (hostel) owners, and guest masters of convents and monasteries. I will always picture some of these first individuals who made my visit so memorable.

Eric outside Clerques. Made me feel quite welcome in his 20+ year building project of a weekend home for his family. A retired executive from Auchon (family controlled mega business) without any building experience, he shares his “get-away” with friends and family. He even built a Harry Potter hide away stairs to access the upper floor. The two of us talked for four hours while drinking local beer and his own dandelion wine.

Alain and Patricia in Therouanne. Alain is a retired owner of a John Deere dealership. A friendly and humorous fellow. Always wanting to support pilgrims, he sliced off part of the land of his dealership in order to have a pilgrim ostello. Wonderfullly, he allows pilgrims to stay in the hostel for only 25 euros (yeah)!! Patrcia brought some hot homemade vegetable soup on a cold night to Ross (fellow pilgrim) and me. What an unexpected plus!!

Jean Baptistery and Colette in Amettes. They are a Via Francigena institution! Welcoming pilgrims since 1998 in their home, they are a kindly face with exhaustive knowledge of the pilgrim world. Last year over 200 pilgrims stay with them. My photo is added to their collection of every pilgrim’s photo since 1998! Frustrated that they couldn’t find two nights of lodging for me, Jean- Baptiste drove me 20-25 miles so that I could walk into Arras.

Caroline and Arno outside Arras. After greeting them with “Bonjour” a mile or two earlier, I start to chat with them. Well, honestly I was complaining that my iPhone was about dead and my battery bank hadn’t accepted last night’s charge. “If you don’t mind a ten minute walk, you can come to our place to charge your phone.” Shortly later, after asking where I was staying, they offer “We can even take you to the Anne Frank residence.” I’m no purist! So saving 3-4 miles sounded heavenly to me!! Caroline is a teacher; Arno is in justice system. Say a prayer for him that he can pass an English exam in order to be a teacher also.

Julia at the Anne Frank residence in Arras. She is one of three girls making cookies when I arrive. As I am leaving the dining area after finishing dinner, she rises from her chair, goes into kitchen, and brings me one of the cookies! Big smile on her face! How sweet.
So many small but encouraging acts of human warmth and contact. Slow travel allows me to savor and really appreciate these acts.