Today is the hardest day since the rainy days in northern France.

According to Sandy Browns VF guidebook, about 24 kilometers with 700 meters ascent and 300 descent, he labels the route “Hard, terrain and climb”. The high point of the route though is the source of the River Loue, one of the VF “most beautiful experiences.” I’m in. He’s not wrong. But, I make it harder!

Leaving Mouthier, I see two DEVIATION signs. Arghh! “Okay, they mean business!” Instead of taking the official trail, I crossover the river on an old stone bridge. Within 100 meters I don’t see any more signs, and I’m going downriver not upriver. Off to my left I see a nice trail. Google Maps shows this trail going to the source of the River Loue. Just where I want to go! So, off I go! You probably know how this turns. After a mile, the trail narrows. The next mile, I’m scrambling over downed trees and hauling myself up irregular stone steps. Eventually I see a beautiful grotto, but the trail disappears into the river! Having worked in Zion National Park one summer and hiked the Virgin River trail numerous times, I knew what to expect. Wet and cold feet. With a few choice words, I turn around.

Oops. A rather rough trail with all the blown trees.

At least there were some pretty columbines!

I found a cave if it rained.

At 11:30, I reach my original starting point where I read the DEVIATION signs. So, I begin all over again from Mouthier. I say to myself: “I’m taking the VF official trail despite any DEVIATION signs.” I breeze past two more different signs. “Okay, they mean business, but I’m taking this trail.” There’s a few times when I scramble over trees; a few new trail sections where there have been rock slides, but it is all manageable.

If no deviation, these falls are a popular destination.

After approximately four miles, I reach my destination, the source of the river Loue.

Since it’s past 1:30ish, I’m ready for a food break. Fortunately, there is a small cafe with outdoor seating. Since one can drive to this spot, the tables are fairly full. I sit and wait for the waiter. Gazing around, my eyes make contact with another pair of eyes, Jacques. I first met Jacques and his wife Jean in Clairvaux, 125 miles back! While we run into each other every other day before my Strasbourg rest period, we haven’t seen each other for a week. We chat, we drink lemonades. While they only have 2 more miles compared to my 10-12 miles, I need to push on since late. Miles to go! It is great seeing familiar faces. It’s great talking. It picks up my spirit showing them a photo of Mary whom I’ll see in a few days. Jacques even picks up the tab for my lemonade.

Invigorated, I’m back walking. The next 4 miles are the major ascent. Tough. A forest trail. A gravel road for tree-cutting operation. An asphalt road. It doesn’t help my spirit when I see a sign “13%”, referring to the grade. Tough!

But after 1-2 miles, I see an unmistakable Camino shell tied to a tree branch! “Somebody’s been here before. Thank you for the encouragement!” After another mile, I see a rundown small building. On the buildings porch are two extremely comfortable looking chairs! Break time! I catch my breath. I drink from my water bladder. Oops! I can tell I’m getting low on water.

I continue. In another mile I pass the summit. I even begin to notice and appreciate the scenery and the beautiful church on a ridge. Best yet, my hike is soon going downhill.

I emerge from the forest onto a plateau filled with farms. It reminds me of the northern Yellowstone area. As I walk through beautiful fields, I love seeing the rolled bales of hay. Nice! However, for the next 3-4 miles, walking on a hot, asphalt road, without shade, trying to conserve my remaining water, I really start to drag.

I hear a car behind me. I move over, staring down. The car doesn’t drive by, the car stops. I look up. The driver is an older man. I don’t understand his French; he doesn’t understand my English. Quickly I ask “Vuillecin?” “Oui.” I point to me; I point to the passenger’s seat. He nods his head. Within minutes I’m in a car slowly driving to the next village! After 2 miles, He stops where the VF crosses the road. He even gives me a water bottle! A nice, nice fellow!

Back to walking the last 2 miles eventually through Pontarlier’s city streets. When google maps tells me that I’m 30 meters from my BnB, I hear “Curt. Curt.” Now I can hear imaginary voices, but I’m actually hearing my own name! It is Elaine, one of the Canadians that I had met outside Langres a 100 miles earlier. I chat with her and the other two Canadian women for a few minutes. It is wonderful in a foreign land to hear one’s name, to see familiar faces, and to chat in one’s native language! Wonderful!

I’m in my lodging. I’ve taken Tylenol; I’ve applied the Voltairin. I’ve probably walked 18 miles. Ouch! I’ve been on my feet for over 9 hours. Ouch! A tough, tough day!

As I try to do every day, before I started my walk today, I read the Psalms. Today, among others, I read Psalm 121. “I lift up my eyes to the hills; from where does my help come?” Jacques and Jean. A Camino scallop shell. A comfortable chair on a rundown, deserted porch. A French driver and his bottle of water. Elaine calling my name.

I know these gifts of help. In addition, I know more.