I’m like others. I want to see something new; I want to return to a place of distant, cultural memory. I get to see for the first time Haridwar. In my reading, the “almost-Himalayan” town of Haridwar continually pops-up as one of India great pilgrimage sites. Sign me up for a visit, not a pilgrimage. Since another town is only miles away, I get to visit a city made famous by a certain group of singers own personal visit. Rishikesh and the Beatles. So, Haridwar and Rishikesh are on my itinerary!

I don’t know entirely what to expect as we drive to Haridwar. My main goal is to visit the nightly aarti service on the banks of the Ganga (actually a channel diversion from the main river). Since the drive from Delhi takes only a couple of hours, I have time for two afternoon visits.

Not far from my hotel, and on a rocky ridge overlooking Haridwar, is the Mansa Devi Mandir, the Durga temple. Time to visit a site devoted to a goddess. Rather than take the cable car, I walk approximately a mile from my hotel to the temple. Others either talk and laugh as they climb to the temple, or say nothing as they breathe deeply as they struggle to reach the temple. We all are excited though! What a view!

One of the places that I wanted to visit was the Mansa Devi Mandir, the Durga Temple. The devotees do something distinctive. Practicing Hindus tie threads to a branch of a tree in the temple. Apparently, devotees believe that Durga will fulfil their wishes. Interesting!

With the help of my guide, I also visit the Bharat Mata Mandir, Mother India Temple which was dedicated in 1983. Again, not knowing what to visit, I find on each floor of this “temple,” a selective history lesson about India.

When I entered, I immediately see a statue of the goddess Mother India, a woman dressed in a sari holding the flag of India and a large contour map of India. Rather than a temple leading to an inner sanctum holding a deity, this “temple” focuses around India and its history worthy of devotion.

As I visit each of the eight floors, I view a whole variety of statues illustrating either mythical figures or historical figures. My sense is that this “temple” is not a usual temple, rather it is more like a museum, fairly early. The second floor honors the patriotic sons of India with facsimile statues. I find the always revered Gandhi, but then there are other figures, surprising to me. A statue of Subhas Chandra Bose, who formed a National Army to fight against the British, and a statue to Bhagat Singh, who slogan “Long Live Revolution” advocated for violence against the British. On the third floor, I find statues of famous women. Looking closely, I read their names, Meera Bai, Savitri and Matiri, mythic figures and historic women, and their achievements. Okay, an attempt to be inclusive.

The next day we drive to Rishikesh which is probably ten miles from Haridwar. Rishikesh is a small town, clinging to land squeezed between the Ganga and cliffs rising on each side above the river.

My reason for visiting, the Beatles. I can’t resist posting this photo from 1968. As a child of the 1960’s, I know about Rishikesh and its association with the Beatles. When George Harrison and John Lennon condemned drugs and advocated for Transcendental Meditation, they decided to visit India in general, and Rishikesh in particular because of the location of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s ashram. All four Beatles joined them in a visit to India. The individual Beatles resided at Rishikesh for different lengths of time, from about two weeks to three months. It proved to be a time of creative musicality. As I see the ashram from across the river, I regret that I don’t walk through the remains of the ashram. Apparently, a few buildings still exist, with photos and graffiti. Oh well….

With no guide, I continue to walk through various parts of Rishikesh and simply observe. I see a sign welcoming then Prince Charles who had just visited. I see signs announcing various ashrams. I see my first types of sadhus. Some looked poor and ill-dressed. Others wore clean beautiful robes, confident beaming smiles, and, rather amply fed.

A wonderful first few days outside of Delhi!