I arise at 6AM. By 8AM and after breakfast at the hotel with a large Japanese pilgrim group, I enter the stupa grounds. Two immediate surprises. One surprise makes my initial more pleasant. Probably because of the early hour, there are not many hawkers selling merchandise. “Good planning!” The other surprise is more noteworthy. A banner “International Tripitaka Chanting Festival” stretches across an entrance. Little did I know, but I am visiting during this ten-day festival. What a treat!!

I didn’t know what to expect before I traveled to Bodh Gaya. I know that Buddhists revere this site as the site of Siddhartha Gautama’s enlightenment. Concerning the stupa, I’ve read the material. The Mahabodhi Temple is a large structure, the main tower being over 170 feet in height. Archaeologists claim that this site has been venerated by Buddhists since 250 BCE. During that period, Ashoka, the Hindu Mauryan ruler who converted to Buddhism, directed that a monastery be built. Although the structure is built of brick and not stone, the present structure dates from the 5-6th century CE. Having undergone several restorations, the 1880’s restoration replaced damage bricks, added height to the stupa, built new corner spires, removed centuries old stone railings, and landscaped the site. In June 2002, the Mahabodhi Temple became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is an impressive site.

Back to my visit. Passing security, I walk the outside perimeter wall first. I want both to enter into the mood of the place, and to see the stupa from a close, but still, somewhat distant perspective. While walking, one man asks “Have you read the Gita?” “Yes, I’ve read the Gita.” “That is good, all you need to know is in the Gita.” I find this question and response strange as I am at a Buddhist site!

As I walk, I pass numerous older men and women, many of them holding and using a Buddhist rosary. Later, by my third trip to the Temple complex, we begin to recognize each other. Although we don’t say anything, we politely nod to each other in recognition!

While walking on the outer walk-way, we all hear the sound. A constant sound of voices. A constant chanting. Probably one-thousand people encircle the stupa. While most of the monks and laity are quietly reading the Tripitaka, a still-large group of monks is chanting the scriptures. Inaugurated in 2005, the organizers hoped that the festival would provide a way for Buddhists from around the world to gather together. In my judgment, the goal has been successively reached!

As I walk into the inner area, I see the diversity of Buddhism. Sitting under tents or next to tents, I see robed monks and nuns in white, gray, saffron, burgundy robes. Laotians, Cambodians, Vietnamese, Thai, Taiwanese, Japanese, Sri Lankans, Bangladeshis, Indian, Nepalese, Tibetan Buddhists and more. Apparently, one group takes the lead in chanting. Then, another group takes the lead. These monks, nuns, and laity are reciting a portion of the Tripitaka, Buddha’s sermons and teaching. Their goal is to eventually recite the entire Tripitaka at this site, though it may take decades!

Because of my 2005 visit to Tibet, I recognize the Tibetans. Some are chanting. Others are fingering their rosaries. Some are prostrating themselves on long boards while saying the appropriate prayers. 

As I move through the stupa grounds, I try to be as unobtrusive as possible. I take photos from a distance. I love the colorful robes. I love the intense concentration. If the person looks at me, I simply smile. When I take the photos of several Tibetan monks, I can’t help but say “Tashi dalek,” whether appropriate or not!

I certainly don’t want to be like a man with a large backpack and video camera. He walks within two feet of a monk and films the monk; or he places himself between a lead chanter using a microphone and the hundred other monks below him. I don’t know if he has an official position which requires him to videotape the chanting or not. He definitely is noticed!

Unfortunately, I also see security forces. Only a few months earlier, on July 7, 2013, a bomb explodes. Two monks are injured by that bomb planted by an Islamist terrorist organization. A sad commentary on our times!

Regardless of that recent past event, the chanting mesmerizes all of us. Pilgrims from all over the world gathering together at the site of the Buddha’s Enlightenment. Memorable!