My 1990 visit to Kolkata occurs during a monsoon. Carl and I leave a bookstore. As we crossed a road, the water on the road went above our ankles. We felt like we had to swim to get across the road! Not a great time to get around! This visit, no monsoon! As I want to see and learn about Kolkata, I figure what better way than with a tour!
Rikwick is my guide. Unlike my journal notes about other guides, I don’t have biographical notes about Rikwick. Given his passion to correct common Kolkata stereotypes, I guess that most of our conversation was about Kolkata, not about him. If the common Kolkata stereotype is that it is only an ugly, impoverished, soulless city where individuals only think about survival, then that stereotype is not true. Rikwick’s underlying message is: “Don’t accept the usual stereotypes of Kolkata!”
One stereotype is: Kolkata is only an ugly city. Not true. Rikwick takes me to the “Flower Market.” Transported from the surrounding countryside, I see colorful flowers I recognize, the marigolds, gladiolas, chrysanthemums, roses, and all sorts of flowers that I don’t recognize. Partially underneath the Howrah Bridge which leads to the Kolkata Railway station on the other side of the Hooghly River, the market extends for several square blocks. With 2-4,000 vendors and possibly 50,000 visitors/ buyers a day, the market is one of the largest in Asia. The busiest times are from 4AM until 8AM. Get there early! Beautiful. Fragrant.
Another stereotype is: Kolkata is a “soulless” city. Not true. We drive north along the Hooghly River to Belur Math. Belur Math is the headquarters for the Ramakrishna Mission founded by Vivekananda in 1898. As I walk around the large complex, Ritwick and I talk with several monks. One monk is translating Vivekananda’s writings into English. He is well-qualified. He is from the USA, and his mother lives thirty-miles from me in Marietta, Georgia! Small world!
Another monk and I have a more religious-philosophical discussion. He is eager to distinguish the perspective of Ramakrishna from broader Hinduism. In his opinion, orthodox Hinduism so emphasizes Brahman that “Maya”, the “world of appearances”, our world, is neglected. To correct this deficiency, Ramakrishna recognizes that “the world of appearances” is “our world. “Don’t neglect it.” With this insistence, Ramakrishna wanted his followers to reform and improve the world around them. Another example of Hinduism changing in modern times. Another form of religiosity, of “soul”, in the midst of a large, crazy city!
A final stereotype: Kolkata is a city where people only think about survival. Not true. There are certainly the homeless who barely survive; there are certainly large businesses which may only prioritize profit. But there is more.
When we return to Kolkata, we stop for coffee in Albert Hall, a coffee shop for students. Drinking my best cup of Indian coffee, Ritwick talks about another famous, native-son of Kolkata, R. Tagore. In 1913 R. Tagore becomes the first Indian, and the first Asian, to win a Nobel Prize. His Nobel Prize is in Literature. Since then, three other native Bengalis, and one “adopted” Bengali (Mother Teresa), have received a Nobel Prize. All four have associations with Kolkata.
Here are some of Tagore’s reflections. About Kolkata. “So in the streets of Calcutta I sometimes imagine myself a foreigner, and only then do I discover how much is to be seen, which is lost so long as its full value in attention is not paid. It is the hunger to really see which drives people to travel to strange places.” About joy and service. “I slept and dreamt that life was joy. I awoke and saw that life was service. I acted and behold, service was joy.” About wisdom. “The small wisdom is like water in a glass:
clear, transparent, pure. The great wisdom is like the water in the sea: dark, mysterious, impenetrable.” Finally, “Let your life lightly dance on the edges of Time like dew on the tip of a leaf.”
So much, so much, to Kolkata and its people.
Watch out for stereotypes.
