415. Places of Foreignness: Incorruptible Bodies, Headless Statues, and Miraculous Altars

I haven't talked with others about these places and statues. My conversations with other pilgrims usually veer in other directions. Laon In Lucca, I visit the church in Lucca where the body of St. Zita is claimed to be "incorruptible"; in numerous churches, I see statues of headless saints holding their own heads; in Bolsena, …

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414. The Ancient Roman World and Rome

Sigeric would have seen the Roman world even before he reached Rome. He would have traveled on Roman roads. He would have crossed rivers using Roman bridges. He would have seen the remains of Roman amphitheaters. This one is at Luna along the coast south of Pontremoli. In Sutri, he would have seen another Roman …

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408. A Baseball Hat and Regrets

I’m sipping wine on a terrace of the Hotel Borgo Antica Hotel outside Monteroni d'Arbia. My eyes linger over the silhouettes of the cedar trees and Italian cypresses backlit by the setting sun. My ears pick-up the barking of dogs, and, at times, the roar of a motorcycle on the highway in the distance. Admiring …

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407. Tuscany Vineyards, Orchards, Workers, and Owners

I, and many others, lose ourselves in the Tuscany landscape. Among other Tuscany features, the vineyards have an enchantment about them. The vineyards are not only one of the most scenic aspects of Tuscany; they are also one of the oldest agricultural features. Historians assert that the Etruscans cared for vineyards as early as the …

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404. San Gimignano: A Typical Pilgrim and More

In my past long-distance walks, I blend into the pilgrim scene. Some pilgrims walk further and faster. Other pilgrims walk fewer miles and more slowly, often because of a bad ankle or knee. Other pilgrims may have red or black backpacks; I have a blue backpack. Most of us find a hiking pole helpful; there …

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403. Lucca: History and More History

Lucca, a Roman founded city, is an unanticipated gem. A city that simply allows one to feel as though one is living centuries ago. I have a rest day in Lucca. A day for exploring though! At first, I walk the massive, Renaissance city walls. The city walls, 2.6 miles in length, are the second …

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402. My First Fellow Pilgrims

Pontremoli! My nights lodging at the Church and Convent of the Cappuchins is sufficient. A bit minimalist with no heat and no breakfast coffee. Still, the kindness is appreciated and the price is right! As I walk down the corridor to the restroom, I meet an Italian who already shouldered his pack and is heading …

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401. Rome and Trains: A Ragged Start

Rome. It is amazing when the first few days of a trip proceed as smooth as silk. No hitches. No train flubs. No health issues. Ideal. Well...my start isn't as smooth as silk. I arrive in Rome from Atlanta easily enough. I find my convent lodging not far from either the Colosseum or Termini Station. …

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