540. Bodh Gaya: The International Chanting Festival

Dusk at Bodh Gaya I'm in Bodh Gaya. I arise at 6AM. By 7AM, I and a large Japanese pilgrim group are through with breakfast. By 8AM, I enter the stupa grounds. Two immediate surprises. One surprise makes my initial more pleasant. Probably because of the early hour, there are not many hawkers selling merchandise. …

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539. Varanasi at Night: Mayank’s Walking Tour

So much to see and learn about Varanasi. Since Jai has guided me on one walking tour, he recommends that I should take his colleague Mayank's night walk. “He’ll show and tell you some unforgettable things about Varanasi.” He isn’t wrong. Jai describes Mayank as "our secret Sikh weapon!" When I meet Mayank, he tells …

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537. Walking through Varanasi: Guided by Jai

View of Ghats from Above I'm eager to return to Varanasi. On this return, I'm booking two guided walks with "Jai", Jeremy, through VaranasiWalks. What a story he has! Born in Minnesota, Jai grows up an evangelical Christian. Attending a Bible college for three years, he leaves without a degree. What to do? He joins …

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536. The Nightmare at Delhi’s Railroad Station

From Dharmshala, I fly to Delhi. Even though the flight departs fifteen minutes late, we arrive on time. Uneventful. Nice job Pilot! From the airport, I arrange a taxi to the Delhi railroad station. I have a pre-purchased ticket for the Delhi to Varanasi train. The taxi ride is uneventful. Again, nice job taxi-cab driver! …

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535. Walking to the Tibetan Children’s Village

To be honest, I forget how I heard about the Tibetan Children’s Village. Regardless, I decided to stretch my legs and walk to the TCV. Since the Tibetan Children's Village is located "only" a mile outside the town, I say to myself "No problem. I'll love a fresh walk in the countryside." Well, the walk …

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534. Seeing Dharamsala and Tibetan Buddhists with Dholdun’s Help

Gyuto Tibetan Monastery While I enjoy wandering around a place by myself, I know that there are times a guide is indispensable. In Dharamsala, Dholdun is my guide. Born in China's Autonomous Region, he has lived in Dharamsala since fleeing China in 2005. Although only a guide for three months, he is eager to show …

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533. Traces of Westerners in Dharamshala

My flight to Dharmshala lands roughly, but safely. Yeah! Before talking about the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan presence, the main reason for my traveling to Dharamsala, I want to describe my initial impression of Westerners and Dharamsala, my two interesting conversations with Westerners, and a reminder that Westerners had made Dharamsala their own home. …

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532. A Night at the Ganga: Haridwar’s Aarti Ceremony

What does one do at night in Haridwar? Of course, go to the Har Ki Pauri Aarti sunset ceremony! So, along with hundreds of others, I move toward the Ganga riverbanks. A word about Haridwar. Haridwar is important for a number of reasons. Approximately 130 miles north of Delhi, Gwami drives me from Delhi to Haridwar, stopping …

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531. New Sites: Haridwar and Rishikesh

I'm like others. I want to see something new; I want to visit a place of distant, cultural memory. So, I include in this trip Haridwar and Rishikesh. In my reading, the "almost-Himalayan" town of Haridwar continually pops-up as one of India great pilgrimage sites. Sign me up for a visit, but not a pilgrimage. …

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